Distance travelled: 320 miles – Temperature: 5 – 32ºC – Travelling time: 0830 – 1730
A typical site along the Black Sea coastline, a vast mosque with towering minarets
We elected to drive through the mountains towards Torul, not returning to Trabzon but joining the coast road further west at Tirebolu towards Samsun. While it was going to take a little longer we thought it worth it so that we might see something more of the area. It was beautiful. We toured through little towns and villages waking up to the day and setting up market stalls, paralleling the river and reservoirs. The biggest cabbages on the planet must be grown in this area, they were the size of a bull’s head, piled high on little trucks and carefully arranged at the ubiquitous roadside stalls.
As we cruised along thoughts of a delicious fishy lunch filled our heads (and I have to mention for the sake of our children at this point I was caught singing along to Pink Floyd – how could they have slipped that into our Drive Home playlist?!?) We made a small detour into the seaside town of Ünye and paused for lunch full of anticipation, expectation and some degree of salivation after three years of ‘chicken or beef’ on the menu in Pakistan. We were really looking forward to fresh fish by the Black Sea, only to be told there was none but perhaps we might get some in 3 weeks or so!! Most disappointing but we had no time to pursue our gastronomic desires.
Dipping my toes in the Black Sea at Ünye
Roadside stalls stacked with specialities of the area; pumpkins, terracotta pots and samovars. Sadly I missed the photo opportunity for a giant cabbage!
Our main endeavour over the next three days was to cut along the Black Sea coast and get to Istanbul. This proved to be straightforward and fast. The coastal road was smooth, dual laned and had very little traffic. While the weather was lovely the scenery was pretty samey. The entire route is lined with colourful modern highrise blocks interspersed with trees and shrubs and nestled into the hills descending to the coast. Not unattractive but with little of apparent historical note – Murray asking frequently, “But where are all the castles?”
We headed inland at Samsun, a vast city rising on the coastal horizon and impressive to the eye but daunting to the traveller who needs to keep a pace on. The traffic came to a standstill but after a few traffic light changes we got through and made it to Amasya, an ancient town en route to Ankara renowned for its apples, at dusk.
The Ottoman guest house where we stayed, probably better described as shabby chic and was best not to look too closely at anything inside! (Breakfast was lovely though)
Amasya had a castle, much to Murray’s delight! It is seated on top of a barren hill above some incredible 6th Century tombs carved into the stone. These we saw at night from the town stunning lit in changing colours.
Whitesides on the Road 