Balmy and sunny, 23°C
The fabulous Flame Towers. The whole of Baku is a feast of incredible architecture
Feeling a great sense of relief at having completed Phase One of our trip we felt the need to celebrate and so checked into the JW Marriott with the intention of having two very spoiling rest days before pushing on and taking in Azerbaijan. We had gained a couple of days in terms of planning, having allowed for four days in Turkmenbashi, as our target was to get to France to meet up with the family mid way through the half term school break. It was a bit tight but doable if we stuck to the plan.
The staff at the hotel were beyond helpful in every way. We were clearly not their typical guests, I suspect more used to corporate guests, wedding groups and wealthy oil magnates! Our 15 year old Rav4 sat a little incongruously amongst the shining Mercedes in the underground car park but it also raised curiosity – particularly the noise that was now undeniably coming from the under the bonnet, not so much of a whine but a loud rattle when idling or in low gear.
The young man in charge of the hotel fleet of Mercedes agreed to drive around the block to try and diagnose the issue – a scary thing in itself as the local people seem to have aspirations of Formula One driving. I’ve never been in such fast moving traffic in an urban environment. There is no such thing as a traffic jam here – it all moves rapidly on wide, straight boulevards!
The hotel mechanic felt we had a problem with the gear box – not a loose manifold as we had hoped. After some discussion he offered to take the car to his cousin who was also a mechanic and together, on his day off, he would endeavour to get it fix. And an endeavour it certainly was. Three days later, an 18 hour round trip to Georgia, and much contingency planning on our part, the wonderful Muraz returned late into the night having found a replacement clutch fly wheel. At this point I have to mention the most marvellous young fellow back in Salisbury in the Toyota spares department: James Jones. Prior to setting off on the trip he had gathered all the spares we needed to prep the car (suitcases full were carried back to Islamabad over the course of the summer!) and now he had worked his socks off to get the fly wheel and bolts we needed and ready to express expedite just in case the parts couldn’t be sourced regionally. He is an absolute star.
There was nothing for it but to make the most of being in the wonderful city of Baku. It is breathtaking, not just for its modern architecture. It is steeped in history, has a beautiful old town and many historic sites. Add great food, flourishing culture and ease in getting around, this place really is fantastic. We would thoroughly recommend it as a the next best destination.
Architecture of the old city
Some of the amazing modern architecture (not sure how another old engine got in here!)
Wandering about down town
The truly incredible structure of Zaha Hadid’s Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre
The collection of Azeri national artists’ works
We heard late on the night of the 10th that the car parts needed had finally been found in Georgia and there was every expectation that they could be fitted by the early afternoon the following day. We were so so grateful for the immense efforts everyone had made. Now the wait to see if the car would work . . . .
Whitesides on the Road 
I’ve been behind the sofa all night. This is better than Dr. Who. Not knowing how the next episode will unfold. Loving the detail, fab photos hope the car keeps going. JB
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Enough, Jamie B! You want to be here – we’ve got no fingernails left. The 18 hour drive to Georgia produced a bum part and now we’re shipping the parts from super star James in Salisbury – all to a 30 minute deadline so we can get the part on the next plane to Baku. It’s turned out to be an exquisitely expensive week – now for cocktails x n in the Flame Towers methinks . . Argh!
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