Distance: 67 miles – Travelling time: 2 hours 20 minutes

The Baltit Fort, Karimabad, Hunza

A leisurely day ahead in terms of driving, our target was to get to the customs post of Sost, on the banks of the Khunjerab River, late in the afternoon to be ready to clear customs and immigration and get the papers to export the car out of Pakistan first thing the following morning so that we would have plenty of time to clear through Chinese customs; a two step process with a 160km drive between two immigration posts once in China.

We woke to a beautiful day of clear blue skies and whilst having breakfast we caught a glimpse of the top of Rakaposhi, at last, through a window in the clouds shrouding the mountain. The views were spectacular all around. From the Eagles Nest (Robin – N.B. no apostrophes are used here!), after a very challenging climb in the car up steep narrow tracks (both car and Murray did extremely well!), to the Altit Fort, the surrounding scenery is astounding. It is easy to imagine the people of Hunza throughout history protecting their lands from the vantage points of their forts and hilltops. Truly the terrain the Great Game.

Rakaposki Mountain, the summit could just be seen

The Hunza Valley

The clear blue waters of the River Hunza

Really? How very ‘Pakistan’!

A view of the Lady’s Finger

Views across the Hunza Valley

The Baltit Fort, founded in the 13th century AD

Locally made crafts

The Altit Fort from above

The renovated tower of the Altit Fort, originally built in 1548

Looking down into the Altit Village

Local Hunza women

Departing Karimabad we stopped briefly at Haldeikis, the Hunza Sacred Rocks, to see the 7^th century rock carvings of ibex and men of horse back – I was slightly skeptical as there were also smatterings of “Ali woz ‘ere” inscribed next to the rudimentary ibex!

The drive to Sost is possibly the most beautiful and stunning road I have ever driven. The mountains of the Karakorams are various and mighty and the light ever changing, with a hint of autumn the trees are just turning colour and the water in the rivers a beautiful but turbid turquoise blue. The road surface was excellent and we made good progress up the KKH to the surreal Attabad lake with exquisite turquoise waters, through 8km of tunnel (all unlit and some with workmen – completely in the dark! Terrifying to come across at close range, without notice) and on past the Passu and Batura glaciers to arrive in the mid afternoon at Sost.

Attabad Lake

Old boats on Attabad Lake

Entering the first of the 5 tunnels taking us through 8km of mountain

The breath taking conical Passu towers

Cruising!

Towards Passu